From April 26
to May 12, 2026, numerous devotees of Sri Kalivanashramam undertook a
pilgrimage to Puri and Kamakhya. As part of this pilgrimage, we had the
opportunity to visit many sacred places, including the Konark Sun Temple, Puri
Jagannath Temple, Sakshi Gopal, Girija Devi of Jajpur, Lingaraj Temple of
Bhubaneswar, Kalighat Kali Temple, Dakshineswar Kali Temple, Belur Math,
Gangasagar, the main ISKCON temple at Mayapur, Navadwipa where Sri Chaitanya
Mahaprabhu walked, Vaidyanath, Tarakeshwar, Shrinkhala Devi, Maa Tara,
Ekachakrapuram, Kamakhya, Umananda Ashram, Vasishta Ashram, and many other
divine kshetras.
At these holy
places, one experiences not only the glory of the presiding deities but also
the sanctity that has accumulated through the presence and spiritual practices
of countless great souls—from Jagadguru Sri Adi Shankaracharya to Gurudeva Sri
Hanumat Kali Vara Prasada Babuji Maharaj. Such sacredness can only be truly
understood through personal experience.
The Konark Sun
Temple stands as a testament to the genius of our ancient sculptors. At the
same time, its tragic history reminds us that rulers have often given greater
importance to grandeur than to human values. After all, the Supreme Lord does
not desire ostentation. Perhaps that is why this magnificent temple could not
continue as a place of worship. The king had decreed that if the temple was not
completed within twelve years, the twelve thousand artisans working on it would
be put to death. Though the temple itself was completed, the installation of
the pinnacle remained impossible. On the final day, the twelve-year-old son of
the chief sculptor successfully installed it. Fearing that the king would
punish all the artisans if he learned the truth, the boy leapt from the
pinnacle and ended his life. Thus, despite its grandeur, the temple became
ritually impure and ceased to be a place of worship.
At the
Jagannath Temple in Puri, the Lord stands with outstretched arms as if lovingly
inviting everyone. Yet the overwhelming crowds make one feel that simply
emerging safely from the throng is itself an achievement.
Nor is this
situation unique to Puri. Most of the major temples on the pilgrimage route
face similar conditions. Even if God shows grace, a proper darshan often
depends upon the goodwill of the priests. We sing:
"The wealthy man worth
crores and the poor laborer striving for a meal are equal before Your
grace."
Yet in practice, money often
becomes the deciding factor.
Many people
advocate removing temples from government administration and placing them under
private trustees. However, in terms of cleanliness and organized services for
devotees, the South Indian temples managed by governments often appear superior
to many North Indian temples run by hereditary priests (Pandas). There, much
depends upon fate. If one finds a good Panda, the darshan is smooth and
fulfilling. Otherwise, newcomers and innocent pilgrims can easily be misled.
Even if one
purchases a ticket and waits patiently, once standing before the deity, the
atmosphere should be filled with peace and devotion. But when one is constantly
pressured for money, how can the mind remain fixed on God? Yet it must be said
that by the grace of Sri Gurudeva, all the priests who guided us explained the
significance of each sacred place thoroughly and ensured that we had satisfying
darshans everywhere.
In complete
contrast stood the serene environments of the ISKCON Temple at Mayapur, the
Dakshineswar Kali Temple, and Belur Math. There one encounters cleanliness,
tranquility, and spiritual focus rather than anxiety about money.
Significantly, all these places are closely connected with great Gurus. This
reinforces the truth that a Guru is essential to understand how to truly
perceive and worship God. Without the guidance of a Guru, even God may be
reduced to a means of livelihood.
Returning to
the Jagannath Temple, one of the most astonishing sights is watching the
priests climb the towering temple spire every evening, regardless of adverse
weather conditions, to replace the flags. Like our own Kaliprasad Deva, Lord
Jagannath is also renowned for feeding countless devotees. Another inspiring
story is that of Sakshi Gopal, another form of the Lord, who is believed to
have walked barefoot all the way from Vrindavan to have darshan of Jagannath.
It is a tale that sends shivers down one's spine.
The Girija
Devi Temple at Jajpur is the Shakti Peetha where the navel of Sati Devi is
believed to have fallen. It is therefore also known as Nabhi Gaya. The temple
priest felt that his spiritual practices had borne fruit merely by having the
darshan of Sri Mataji. So overwhelmed was he that he remained by her side until
we finally departed from the town.
The Lingaraj
Temple, where a Shiva Lingam and a Vishnu Salagrama are worshipped together in
a single form upon what is considered the world's largest pedestal, is another
example of the extraordinary skill of our ancient artisans.
To behold the
Kalighat Kali Mata, who is enshrined in Sri Gurudeva's daily worship shrine,
and to touch the Mother's tongue was a profound experience. Equally moving was
visiting Bhavatarini Kali at Dakshineswar, where Sri Gurudeva had gone
countless times during his spiritual practices and continued to visit annually
after the Dasara celebrations. There we saw the room where Sri Ramakrishna
Paramahamsa lived, the staircase where he anxiously awaited the disciples
destined to receive the divine bliss he experienced, and the steps upon which
he bestowed initiation upon Swami Vivekananda. Touching these sacred places was
a deeply spiritual experience.
The mystical
atmosphere at the Cossipore Garden House, where Sri Ramakrishna spent the final
months before concluding his earthly incarnation, is beyond description. The
peace prevailing in the rooms inhabited by the Master, Holy Mother Sarada Devi,
and their household and monastic disciples is indescribable. In front of the
house still stands the tree beneath which, on January 1, 1886, Sri Ramakrishna
performed the famous “Kalpataru Leela.” On that day he openly declared his
divine nature and touched his disciples, granting them exalted spiritual
states. Nearby lies the cremation ground where his sacred memorial can be seen.
Belur Math,
the headquarters of the worldwide Ramakrishna Order, is vast and beautiful.
Sitting in meditation before the divine image of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa in
the main shrine, one feels as though the Master himself is lovingly embracing
and drawing us into his lap. The gentle evening breeze flowing across the Ganga
adds to this sublime experience.
The sacred sea
bath at Gangasagar on the eve of Vaishakha Purnima left many unforgettable
memories for all the devotees. Sri Mataji entered the sea holding Sri Guru
Padukas in her hands while we stood in two rows forming a V-shape around her.
Eager to receive the blessings of the Divine Mother and the Guru Padukas, the
ocean surged with huge waves and even caused Mataji to lose balance twice. As a
third great wave approached, Mataji cast a powerful glance toward the ocean for
a brief moment. The sight is unforgettable. The wave that had rushed forward
like a tiger suddenly became as gentle as a kitten, transformed into a small
ripple, bowed at her feet, and retreated. Until all the devotees completed
their baths and the abhisheka and worship of the Guru Padukas were concluded,
not another large wave appeared.
Darshan at the
ISKCON headquarters in Mayapur, which spreads Krishna consciousness throughout
the world, was a wonderful experience. Despite the presence of thousands of
devotees, the atmosphere was marked by remarkable silence and discipline. The
orderly manner in which everyone waited for darshan was truly admirable.
Although the
crowds were heavy at Vaidyanath Jyotirlinga, renowned for curing all ailments,
at Tarakeshwar, and at Maa Tara—where Sati Devi’s third eye is believed to have
fallen—each place offered a deeply satisfying spiritual experience. Jagat Gauri
Mata, regarded as Shrinkhala Devi, is believed to protect the surrounding
villages from snake-related afflictions.
The
exceedingly rare darshan of Mother Kamakhya was granted to all of us through
the grace of Sri Gurudeva. This is the Shakti Peetha where the Yoni of the
Divine Mother, the source of all creation, is believed to have fallen. While
the priest in the sanctum was reciting the sankalpa and proclaiming that those
who touch the sacred Yoni of the Mother here will be freed from rebirth, a
devotional song arose in my heart:
"O Mother, how many
births have I already taken? How many more must I take? O Mother, grant me no
further births; instead, unite me with You."
Yet another thought also arose:
if every birth comes through the womb of the Divine Mother, what fault is there
in taking countless births as Her child?
In addition to
all these sacred places visited by Sri Gurudeva, we also visited Shillong,
which was blessed by the dust of his feet. Its natural beauty and museums
showcasing the culture of the northeastern states are truly worth seeing. The
Nohkalikai Falls at Cherrapunji were mesmerizing no matter how long one gazed
at them. Cascading from the Shivalik Hills—the foothills of the Himalayas,
whose name evokes the matted locks of Lord Shiva—the highest waterfall in India
reminded one of the descent of the Ganga.
Yet the tragic
story behind the falls demonstrates how destructive jealousy can be. It also
explains why Sri Gurudeva repeatedly spoke of envy, jealousy, intolerance, and
resentment as distinct but related weaknesses. A woman named Ka Likai remarried
after the death of her husband. Her second husband became jealous because she
loved her infant daughter more than him. In a horrifying act, he killed the
child, cooked her flesh, and served it to the mother. Upon learning what she
had unknowingly eaten, the grief-stricken mother leapt into the waterfall and
sacrificed her life.
That this
pilgrimage was completed safely without any untoward incidents, despite taking
place in Bengal during election and result periods—times often associated with
violence—is due solely to the boundless grace of Sri Gurudeva and the power of
the recitations of Sri Shiva Kavacham and Sri Devi Khadgamala Stotram performed
by all the devotees under the guidance of Sri Mataji.
After
successfully completing the pilgrimage, devotees shared with one another their
experiences of Sri Gurudeva during the train journey home. Upon returning to
Sri Kalivanashramam, they performed abhishekas to Sri Ramalingeswara Swamy,
Kumkumarchana and homas to Sri Mahakalikā Parameswari Mata, and Sri Sadguru
Pada Puja. Offering the fruits of the pilgrimage at the holy feet of Sri
Gurudeva, they felt truly blessed.
